The following clothing merchants have been selected by Andy based on their quality clothing products and their high standards.

Sierra Trading Post	The Wizard of Aahs
Indochina	Astor & Black
Anderson Little	Nicholas Joseph
Ravis Tailor	Studio Suits
Kabbaz & Kelly Sons	Fit Custom Shirts
iTailor	Prince Henry
Tweedmans Vintage There is a special 5% discount for AAAC members on your first order Just enter code ANDY5 at checkout.	Tailored Suits Paris
7 Regent Lane Read my 7 Regent Clothes Review	My Tailor
Bookster Tweed Jacket	Modain Style
Collar & Cuffs London Read my Review of Collars & Cuffs London	Gino Shirt Tailor
Harry Suits	LS Men's Clothing Read my LS Mens Clothing Review to learn more

Dress & Fashion For The Athletic Body Type

Large Chest, Small Waist — Must endure lots of envy!

Suit Style:

Two-button, single-breasted style suits are best.

There are special “athletic” styles sold with  larger drops — or you can purchase matching jacket and trousers separately. A drop is the difference between the jacket size and pants, by the way. Usually suits have a six-inch drop which means a 46 suit may have trousers that are 40″ in the waist.

If you can’t find an “athletic” style go for suits with full cuts so that alterations are easier.

Jacket:
If your weight is in your torso, then a vent-less jacket can have a slimming effect. Boxy or straight cuts are flattering. Shoulder padding should be natural.

Patterns and Colors:
Suits for guys with athletic shapes require dark colors and subtle or no patterns. When you wear a sports jacket and slacks, you can use a dark blazer with lighter color trousers if you have a broad chest and shoulders or if you own a body with a broad bottom and less developed upper body try a light blazer (camel) and dark slacks.

Fabrics:
Medium or lightweight fabrics work better than anything bulky.

Shirts and Ties:
Try a straight point collar rather than a spread collar. Vertical stripes work well.

Trousers:
Review the Body Type for your particular “below the waist” style (short, thin, or tall).

Shoes:
Avoid a heavy, clunky look.

Accessories: 
Try braces (suspenders) to hold up your pants, unless you are barrel-chested. The vertical lines of a pair of braces helps reduce your chest bulk.

Eyewear Shape:
If you have a square face try glasses with rounded lenses to soften the square line. Large faces should avoid little frames like “granny” glasses and look for frames that bridge the face (like wrap-around sun glasses).

Topcoats:

Single breasted with set-in sleeves will look good on you.

BACK to Body Types

Dress & Fashion For A Short Body Type

Some of the most famous men in history were short.

Suit Style:

Pick two or three-button single breasted. You can also wear Double Breasted suits, just button the lower button (like the Duke of Kent). This gives you a longer line in front and provides a taller look. Four-button, double-breasted jackets may be better than six to draw less attention to the upper body.

Jacket:

Fit is crucial for the short man since every detail — sleeve length, jacket length (should cover your bottom), pants length will make you look that much dapper. Center or side vents add a vertical line. Avoid pocket flaps and wide lapels; they add a horizontal line. Slightly built up shoulders will add height.

Patterns and Colors:

Anything that elongates is good, like the vertical effect of pinstripes, chalkstripes and herringbones. If you opt for patterns try small or medium size. When you wear a sports jacket make sure there is little contrast between the jacket and trousers. A high contrast can cut you in half.

Fabrics:

Light or medium weight.

Shirts and Ties:

The shirt collars best for you are the straight point, button down or tab collars. Vertically stripes will be an asset. No bow ties. Ties should go to the belt buckle to avoid a horizontal gap and bold tie colors to accent your face are a good idea. Tie a four-in-hand knot for best proportion rather than the wider Windsor knots.

Trousers:

Medium break on the trouser bottoms. Cuffs are fine, just have your tailor make them 1- 1.25″ instead of 1.5-2″.

Shoes:

Stick to substantial shoes so your foot doesn’t look too trim and small.

Accessories:

Braces also give you a vertical line.

Eyewear Shape:

Small faces should avoid overstated styles and try thin, lightweight (like rimless) metal frames.

Topcoats:

Make sure it is knee length, again for a vertical line.

Hair:

Short hair works best. Long hair hides the neck and shoulders and can make a man look smaller.

BACK to Body Types

Dress & Fashion For The Tall Body Type

How’s the weather up there?

Suit Style:

Two-button, single-breasted suits. Double-breasted suits can look great if you button the middle (waist) button. Look for suits in “Tall” size styles, they will have a longer jacket length and a long rise in the trousers.

If you opt for a three-button single-breasted suit style, don’t button the tip button.  You’ll look better with only the middle button fastened.

Jacket:
Shoulders should be squared, slightly padded and the fit at the waist should be loose or straight. Flapped pockets will add a horizontal line to the jacket. The length can be slightly longer than just covering your rear.

Patterns and Colors:

Plaids (like Glennurguhart) or patterns in medium to large size you can wear well, but avoid stripes.

You can contrast your slacks and sports jackets since you’re looking for horizontal lines. Try bold patterns in your sweaters or casual shirts.

Fabrics:

You are lucky in you can successfully wear medium to heavy weight fabrics. Even bulky fabrics like tweeds look goodon you.

Shirts and Ties:
A wide spread collar and wide knot like the Windsor or half-Windsor work well as do button down and club (rounded) collars, but avoid long point collars. With a long neck tab or pin-collars work well.

Bright colors and bold patterns for shirt and tie combination provide a flattering frame for your face.  Try horizontal stripes on ties and shirts, and shirt patterns such as Tattersall, checks, plaid, etc. 

Trousers:

Make sure you have a long rise pant. It will fit and look much better. Cuffed trousers with a full break-high water pants look even worse on tall guys. You can have your tailor make your cuffs a little wider than the usual one-inch; try 1.5″.

Shoes:
Substantial shoes. No skimpy moccasin styles, look for lace-ups or loafers that give you a strong foundation.

Accessories:
Belts are good (horizontal line again) and you can contrast belt and suit or trouser colors.

Eyewear Shape:

If you have an oblong face choose slender frames and look for styles with the temples placed near the middle or low on the frames. A lower bridge in a color will help with a large nose.

Topcoats:

Well tailored double breasted or any loose fitting coat. Ragland sleeves are good too.

BACK to Body Types

Dress & Fashion Tips For The Heavy Body Type

To be heavy was a sign of wealth in the 20′s. Aw, for those days again!

Suit Style:
A three-button jacket will add height, but if that’s not a problem, a two-button will work also. Double-breasted jackets are good if you are heavy in your chest; the double row of buttons can cut away thickness. Look for suit styles in “portly” (the “drop” — or size difference — between the jacket and pant waist in portly sizes is two inches) or “stout” (the drop in stouts is zero inches) sizes, depending on how the suit fits your body.

Jacket:
Slanted, flapless pockets add to the vertical look. Avoid extra width in lapels. Slightly padded shoulders, straight sides and center vents. Avoid ventless jackets if you’re wide in the rear (side vents can also emphasize the wideness). Tight fitting clothes accentuate bulges. Avoid tightness in the upper chest and shoulders. Think roomy — but definitely not baggy.

Fabrics:
Medium or light weight fabrics, avoid anything bulky (like tweed).

Patterns and Colors:
Vertical stripes play up height and slenderize. Simple patterns or solids in dark colors. Bold patterns expand anything they wrap. Utilize the same color tones in sports jackets and slacks. Too much contrast breaks up the important vertical line.

Black, charcoal gray and navy, aside from being classic suit colors that command authority, actually distance you from your observers and tend to unload some cargo! Dark, cool muted colors can make you appear 10 pounds slimmer.

In sportswear, blue and green will also have slimming power. Conversely, steer clear of warm hues like red, yellow and orange. These colors bring you closer and bulk you up.

Shirts and Ties:
The collars to avoid are spread, tab or pin and club (round) collars. Regular point collars are best. No bow ties please. Go easy on tie patterns. Make sure the tie hits your belt buckle to avoid that horizontal gap. Even in casual wear, long sleeves help with proportion and will look better.

Trousers:
Wear your pants on your natural waist (in line with your belly button). Wearing your pants under the belly just highlights it. Pleated pants which are a style must for everyone else are a requirement for you.

Andy’s Heavy Advice:
Avoid carrying anything in your back pockets. Not just big guys, either. This piece of advice can be heeded by all men since there are nerves that go through that area. Sitting on a bulky billfold can cause nerve and muscle damage that can lead to back pain. Clean out your billfold. If you still have lots of stuff you just can’t do without, buy two thin wallets, carry one in each of your front trousers pockets. You can even sort the important stuff (Driver’s Licence, credit cards, big cash) from the insignificant (little cash) and hand over the insignificant wallet if you ever get mugged!!

Shoes:
Avoid heavy-looking shoes, also anything light colored with thick soles. Try dark shoes with thin soles.
Accessories:
Vests work if they are the same dark color as your suit. Contrasting vests would draw attention to your middle.

Avoid bold belt buckles which can act like a bull’s eye pointing attention like an arrow at your waist. Wide belts make you look wider.

Braces add another vertical line and may help hold the pants at the natural waist.

Pocket squares add a touch of elegance without bringing attention to your size.

Eyewear Shape:
Look for styles with vertical lines such as high temples and a high nose bridge. Try glasses with wide frames to span your face. Rimless glasses add length to your face. Large or wide noses look best with low bridges in clear or metal (no dark colors, please).
Hair:
Longer, fuller hair styles work, but make sure your barber covers the back nape of the neck. If you cut that area too close it can throw the head and neck out of proportion and make them look small in comparison to the broad shoulders. When hair is closely cropped the face is magnified. Grooming is very important for the heavy man. A clean look goes a long way to dispel an apparently instinctive misconception that heavy men don’t care about their appearance.

Topcoats:
Single-breasted with a set-in sleeve is best.

BACK to Body Types

What To Wear & How To Wear It For Those With Thin Body Types

Oh, to be in the shape you’re in!
Suit Style:

Either single breasted two-button or double breasted suits work fine.

Jackets:

Try softly padded shoulders, wider lapels (such as peak lapels), and double vents. Your suit should fit easily, almost loosely. Patch and flap pockets will help unless you are both short and thin.

Fabrics:

Any bulky or hefty weave (tweeds, for example, or flannels) will add to your size.

Pattern and Color:

For the thin body type, patterns will give you some width. Avoid vertical stripes. Contrasting sports jacket and slacks create a horizontal line, which works if you’re tall and thin, but if you’re short and thin less color contrast above and below the belt will work.

Lighter, warm colors have the illusion of bringing you closer to your observers and tends to bulk you up. We’re not advocating orange suits for you, but in sportswear you might want to add some color in your sweater and shirt wardrobe.

Shirts and Ties:

A spread collar tends to broaden the face and a wide knot will help to accentuate the horizontal line. Avoid long point collars. If you have a long neck try a tab or pin collar. Wide ties and bold patterns and color are fine. Horizontal stripe shirts and ties. Avoid vertical stripes.

Sport shirts should fit (like all your clothes).  Garments that are too big emphasize your thinness.

Trousers:

Cuff width depends upon if you are Thin and Tall or Thin and Short. If you’re tall, cuffs with 1 3/4″ work well, just a little more than the usual 1 1/2″ cuff. If you’re Thin and Short try 1 1/4″ cuffs.

Shoes:

Don’t choose a delicate shoe; something wide with a heavy sole completes the thin man’s look.

Accessories:

Vests and V-neck sweaters add bulk. Belts help cut the vertical line.

Eyewear Shape:

Horizontal lines and also full rims around the lenses will shorten your face. Try glasses with mid or low temples.

Hair:

You can wear your hair a little longer on the sides. Make certain your barber leaves hair on the nape of your neck. You don’t want that giraffe look! Within reason you can lower your sideburns a little too.

Topcoats:

Raglan sleeves and double breasted styles are good if you are thin and tall.

A Guide to looking as good as you can, all things considered!

Tips, secrets, and common sense to teach you how to put together a clothing ensemble that will make you look great.

“I don’t get no respect.” –Rodney Dangerfield

Dangerfield! Look at yourself! A man who doesn’t know how to dress like a grown-up gets what he deserves, respect-wise.

Why? Because it turns out that clothes are more important than you think. In fact, researchers have come up with some scientific evidence to support the notion that what you wear really does make a difference in how you influence the world around you.

So now you know what you always suspected: The guy down the hall who didn’t know poop but got the vice-president’s slot anyway got it not because he was smart, but because he knew how to look smart.

That’s what this Guide is all about. In situations such as job interviews, court appearances, sales presentations and first dates it is important to make a not just good, but a great first impression for maximum credibility and authority.

“You never get a second chance to make a first impression.” — Will Rogers

Behavioral scientists tell us that the effect of a first impression is a strong one. The process of sizing you up is something that goes on almost subconsciously. Your evaluation by a stranger takes 30 seconds or less, and can be so strong that it could take as long as five years to erase.

Why not take advantage of the research on human nature and use that knowledge to enhance and control how you are seen by others? Since about 90 percent of you is covered by what you’re wearing, the clothing you choose makes a significant statement.

No rocket science here. Just a little physics and some introductory optics.

There are only a few basic things you need to know about getting dressed to look your best. The main thing is that you should look like you got dressed without having to consult a web guide; you want people to think that looking as good as you do was effortless and easy.

Follow the steps here, and soon you won’t need any steps to follow at all.

The basic basics.

Here’s the handful of things to keep in mind:

Yipes! Stripes!

One bad choice can be a whole pattern of misbehavior.

Most of us know that wide horizontal stripes make the eye move left to right thus creating a broadening effect, and vertical stripes coax the eyes up and down helping to establish a thinner look.

Maybe that’s why the necktie, that glorious vertical stripe of fabric hangs (pun!) in there!

Large designs like plaids, focus on girth not length, whereas small patterns or no patterns underscore thinness.

A super models tip: Walk like a man. Stand like a supermodel Stand and deliver!

Walk like a man. Stand like a supermodel!

Next time you’re the subject of a photo op, pretend there is a clock at your feet.Right foot goes at twelve and left foot at ten, then angle your body to the left to give the person you’re talking to (or the paparazzi) a better, slimmer view.

It also makes for a better photo if you push your shoulders back, keep your eyes wide open (smiling tends to close your eyes), and lower your chin (unless you have a double chin, then raise it slightly)!

Speak Body Language.

Your mom was right! One of the most memorable things she ever said: “Stand up straight, young man.” Why did she say that? Because she knew that good posture will take five or 10 pounds off you with no sweat.

So chest out, stomach in, posture straight, walk into that job interview, sales presentation or singles bar with confidence — and walk tall!

• Don’t be a slouch! Whether you are standing or sitting, slouching can suggest that you are intimidated, that you lack confidence or that you’re uninterested in what others have to say. Swaying or bouncing your foot says that you are nervous.
  
• Keep your head up. If you walk with your head down it lets other people be more important than you. Look at where you’re going.

Make eye contact. 

Don’t stare, but look the other person (persons) in the eye 40 to 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide. When you are in a meeting, it’s okay to look laterally side to side, which appears intellectual or powerful, but don’t look up or down. It makes you look as if you’ve lost your confidence.

• Smile, but “over smiling” gives the impression of weakness. A good smile says you are confident, authoritative and friendly. A real smile lasts three or four seconds; anything longer appears frozen or phony. Smile, but “over smiling” gives the impression of weakness. A good smile says you are confident, authoritative and friendly. A real smile lasts three or four seconds; anything longer appears frozen or phony.
  
• Hands.

The first place nervous energy shows is in your hands. Don’t jingle your change, play with your ring or fiddle with your tie. Hands clasped in front of you, below your waist gives the impression of insecurity and looks like you don’t know what to do with your hands. Just let them hang at your sides, naturally and casually.To put your hands by your side and do nothing with your hands is powerful body language. Don’t hold one arm with the other, don’t clasp your hands in front or in back, and don’t stick your hands in your pockets (it makes your hind end look twice as wide.)

• Mirror, Mirror On The Wall. People are most comfortable with people who are “like” themselves (in dress, mannerisms, thoughts, etc.). Mirror: Try to “mirror” the other person’s body position and mannerisms such as speech speed, (to a certain degree).
  
• Voice pitch. Keep your pitch low. There are more men on radio, because people respond better to lower pitched voices. Don’t end a sentence with a high note, in the interrogative question tone. Instead phrase questions assertively; for example say “I’d like to know when I can meet with you,” as opposed to “when can I meet with you?”
  
• On the phone. Look into a mirror when you are talking on the phone. Ask yourself, would you want to talk to the person you see in the mirror? A smile can be heard over the phone, for example.
  
• Don’t start by apologizing. Some people start to speak by apologizing, or preface a statement with, “forgive me for saying this”. Many of us do it because we learned it from our mothers, and think it’s polite.

A note about FABRIC WEIGHT:

Heavier fabrics give the impression of a heavier body. (Tweed, flannel, bulky sweaters).

Light to medium weight fabrics visually remove pounds. (cotton, twill, linen).

A Quick Application of our new Basic Knowledge:

Most of this is also covered under what to wear for specific body types.

To Look Taller and Thinner:

• Wear clothes that fit well (too tight or too loose clothes add pounds).
• Wear solid colors, preferably in the same color range, from head to toe.
• Avoid stiff fabrics and nubby textures.
• Wear darker tones in smooth fabrics with flat finishes.
• Limit stripes to very fine, subdued, and close-together versions.
• Wear trousers at the natural waist (never below).
• Wear suspenders with button loops, never clips.
• Avoid too many accessories.
• Be sure your tie touches the waistband and that it is medium in width.
• Avoid busy patterns.
• Wear vertical stripes.
• Avoid elastic bottoms on sweaters, and jackets, which can cause the material to bunch up at the waist and make you look heavier.

To Look Shorter and/or Heavier

• Wear contrasting colors in mix-and-match separates.
• Wear bolder colors as accents.
• Wear patch pockets or styling details.
• Wear layers.
• Elastic bottoms on sweaters, and jackets can cause the material to bunch up at the waist and make you look heavier.
• Wear spread-color shirts and slightly wider ties, with Windsor knots.
• Wear thin-soled, trim-looking shoes.
• Select a top coat in a huskier fabric. It can be full or belted and should fall below the knee.
• Wear trousers with deep pleats, cuffs, and full legs.
• Limit using the same color from head to toe.
• Limit the use of narrow vertical stripes, very narrow ties, and pointed lapels.

“How to Look Your Best” is comprised of several articles. Read these sections to see how you can project your best image. 

• The Basics: Start here — stripes, patterns, how to stand up straight, all that.

• Body types: Your body type can be more important in finding the right clothes than your taste.

• What colors say: Need to make a statement? Let your hues cry.

• How women see colors: To every man, there is a season.

• How men see colors: Who says clothes have to be complicated?

The State of Men’s Fashion – An Interview With Andy Gilchrist

Complete Interview HERE.

Let’s face it: men in America, by and large, do not take the pride in their appearance that they should. 

Beyond the fact that this is telling of one’s personal image, it can also be very costly at the hiring line. In an economy still ravaged by the Great Recession, looking sharp becomes all the more important.

So, how might men make a change for the better? It can be a very complicated process, especially if one is not accustomed to actually looking at clothes before wearing them. Considering the apparel trends popular with post-Baby Boomer generations, I venture to say that this is a problem far more serious than most would imagine.

Thankfully, Andy Gilchrist is here to provide the advice that many of us so direly need.

Since founding AskAndyAboutClothes.com in 2001, he has become one of the internet’s leading style gurus. His ebook, The Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothes, has educated appearance-conscious minds the world over. In a detailed interview with me, he discusses his life and career, as well as his opinions about the state of men’s fashion in our decidedly informal nation.

Joseph F. Cotto: Women, generally speaking, are portrayed as caring more about their apparel choices than men do. Is actually the case, judging from your experience?

Andy Gilchrist: It’s not the case, but men grow up in a culture that assigns them the role of not caring about their appearance. “It’s not manly”. Most men realize how their appearance can affect the way people perceive them and react to them but certainly can’t talk about clothes with other men!

I think that’s one of the reasons for the popularity of my website and Forum. Men can anonymously discuss brands, fit and appropriateness of men’s fashion with other gentlemen who are interested in looking their best.

Cotto: Over the last several years, America has become considerably more informal. Why do you suppose that this happened?

Gilchrist: Every one blames the dot.com boom when computer related companies and then other businesses did away with a business dress code as an inexpensive perk for employees. It started with “Casual Friday”.

Companies thought that letting employees dress in shorts, tee shirts and sneakers would appeal to them. The companies didn’t realize that they had diminished the image that the employees reflect on the company. There have been studies recently that people perform better when they are dressed appropriately and that putting on a lab coat can increase your IQ.

Cotto: In your opinion, have casual dress codes gone too far? Might they become counterproductive, especially insofar as business climates are concerned?

Gilchrist: Yes. Image – personal and representing a company to clients is incredibly important.

Cotto: The necktie has seen a drastic reduction in popularity as of late. Nonetheless, it is beginning to make a comeback of sorts. Do you think that the necktie will ever go out of style completely, or is it one of those things that will always stick around?

Gilchrist: The death of the necktie has been being predicted since the Peacock Revolution in the 1960’s. The reason the necktie will never disappear is that it’s one item of clothing in a business suit that the wearer can express his personality (with color and pattern).

It’s an instant symbol along with the jacket of authority. And, most importantly, it provides a vertical line right down the middle of our torso projecting an image of being taller and thinner.

Cotto: Three piece suits are very a contentious subject. Generally speaking, either one likes them or one does not. What is your opinion about their present and future in American fashion?

Gilchrist: Three piece suits have become in-fashion again the past couple of years. They are versatile since you can wear just the vest in a casual situation or wear the vest and jacket for a very British country look.

And the vest adds a extra element of dressy to the suit.

Cotto: Double breasted suits can be another topic of debate. Are they appropriate in business settings, or might they be best for more relaxed atmospheres?

Gilchrist: Double breasted suit are considered more dressy than single breasted, but they haven’t made it back into the mainstream even though designers have been pushing them for years now just to get us to buy a new suit.

Part of the problem with Double breasted suits is that you must keep them buttoned at all times. While a single breasted suit is buttoned when you’re standing and unbuttoned to sit. That double layer of cloth across you chest makes the DB warmer, which might have been an advantage before the advent of air conditioning and heating in offices and home.

Cotto: Collar contrast shirts were huge in the 1970s and ’80s, but fell out of favor throughout the ’90s and 2000s. What are your thoughts about them?

Gilchrist: It’s an area that shirt designers can change to try to get us to buy new styles. The white collars on a colored shirt was so popular when the first “Wall Street” movie was released that it may take a while to come back.

It’s still a “different” look in certain situations.

Cotto: In the past, you have said that when you go out, you dress as if you are going to a job interview. How has this ethic worked for you over the years? Would you recommend it to others?

Gilchrist: I, of course, think it’s an essential philosophy! Men are realizing how important our image is to how others react to us. I think if you’re dressed nice even a chance meeting in a grocery store can turn into a job interview or a date!

Cotto: If you could give men one reason to take pride in their clothing selections, what would it be?

Gilchrist: Realizing how important how you look influences other people. I don’t think anyone dressed in jeans or shorts and a tee shirt got bumped to first class!

Cotto: Now that our discussion is at its end, many readers are probably wondering how you came to be such an authority on men’s attire. Tell us a bit about your life and career.

Gilchrist: I grew up in Kansas and graduated from Kansas State University with degrees in journalism and sociology. That’s where I met my wife. My father was an oil exploration driller (no dress code required) but he really liked fashion and was always interested in what was new. He dressed for dinner and church!

I’ve had several careers in life and started in advertising, first working for newspapers, then an advertising agency in Los Angeles and then as advertising manager for several companies in LA. Then I totally changed careers to work at City Hall of the town we were living in, Manhattan Beach. I was in the Community Development Dept. which handled building and planning.

They trained me to do fire protection inspections as a civilian for the Fire Department. I then went to work for a large defense company in Redondo Beach in Occupational Safety and Fire Protection Engineering. While I was at the defense company a Polo/Ralph Lauren store opened nearby and I applied for a part time job. That job was the most fun I’d ever had working. I’m not a good salesman but was enthusiastic about clothes (father’s influence?).

I was the oldest salesmen and only part time at Polo, but for the 6 years the store was open I was the top sales associate for the entire store for 5 years. The other year I was second! I also noted that men didn’t know much about how to dress. I started creating handouts for them – “How to tie a tie”, “What quality elements to look for in a dress shirt”, etc. Those handouts were the basis years later for my book, The Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothes.

I retired from the defense company, wrote the book (took three years) and then a friend from IBM suggested it would be best to sell the book on a website. I ask him “what’s a website?”. And we started AskAndyAboutClothes.com

The site has mushroomed and is very popular, and is averaging daily:

Unique Visits: 29,156

Page views: 393,741

Hits: 1,378,772

Read more: Let’s ask Andy Gilchrist about clothes | Washington Times Communities

Follow us: @wtcommunities on Twitter

Suits & Sport Jackets From Caruso

Pitti Immagine and Caruso graciously co-sponsored my wife and  my trip to the Florence Pitti Immagine international men’s fashion shows and to  the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy. 

For the Photos from the entire trip to Italy – http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/travel/italy-fashion

I ordered a suit and a very special sport jacket from Caruso while I was there.

The suit!

Getting fitted for a Caruso suit at the factory  in Soragna, Parma  home of the Culatello, the best part of the Parma Ham, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. !  The tailor is Luca Talarico (fifth  generation custom tailor).

My hair must look like that from all the ham,  Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and wine at lunch!

The Caruso Fashion Event in Milano during Milano Fashion Week.  Alberto Caruso, co-owner of Caruso and the son of founder Raffaele Caruso,  and me.  Note my Apparel Arts necktie.

Me, Alberto and Umberto Angeloni, part owner of Caruso.

Choosing my suit fabric.  The Caruso fabric expert is Marco Giorna  (formerly head of design for mills: Colombo, Tallia, Guabello and Cerruti).

At the Caruso Fashion Show in Milan, the Esquire men arrive!  Nick Sullivan (in the middle) and Wendell Brown.   It was fun to watch Nick work and he really did work.  No food or wine, but  went right to trying on almost every garment in the show, photographing most of  them and then out and on to the next show!

He did pick up on this jacket (it’s on my right above).  There was a old  photograph of Maestro Enrico Caruso, the world famous Italian tenor,wearing a jacket like this and  Caruso (no relation) redesigned and produced it.

Here’s what Nick reported: Caruso: The Red One

Instead of the signature red, I’m getting one in brown!

Caruso Suit and Sport Jacket:

I received the Caruso suit and special sport jacket and  they are the two most beautiful garments I’ve ever seen!

These photos don’t do them justice.

The suit is navy with a small window pane pattern (almost a  large check) and the fabric is fantastic!  It’s 3 ply wool.  The three  ply actually gives it a depth or dimension that is unique.

And speaking of unique – the sport jacket as you remember was  copied from one that Enrico Caruso, the world famous Italian tenor, was wearing  in a ca 1920 photo and Caruso (no relation) redesigned and produced it.

It’s spectacular in details – patch pockets with buttoned  flaps, peak lapels, and great buttons (working sleeve buttons, of course).

The original sport jacket they think was around 450 grams  (about 15 oz) but Caruso made it from a lighter and softer fabric of 330 grams  (10 to 12 oz).

The workpersonship on both the garments is superior.

THANK YOU CARUSO!

 For the Photos from the entire trip to Italy - http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/travel/italy-fashion

Or First Impressionism

“I don’t get no respect”
– Rodney Dangerfield

How important really is what we wear?

Is there a cause/effect in how we are treated by the world? Does it make a difference in getting someone to help you in a Department store, or being seated at a good table in a restaurant? Can’t people look through all the superficial and see the real us?

Fortunately, guys, we have some scientific evidence to support what you wear does make a difference in how you influence the world around you. Maybe we didn’t want to believe (but suspected) the real reason that guy down the hall who always dressed great, but didn’t know poop is now a vice president!

When your credibility is crucial, in situations such as job interviews, court testimony, sales presentations and first dates (or even second and third dates) it is important to made a “good” first impression.

“You never get a second chance
to make a first impression“

– Will Rogers

Behavioral scientists tell us that this “first impression” is a strong one. And the process of sizing you up is on a subconscious/emotional level of the brain. Your evaluation by a stranger takes 30 seconds or less and can be so strong that it could take as much as five years to erase.

Don’t you think it’s easier to make a great first impression with you appearance and then follow up by showing what a capable, impressive and trustworthy person you are with a winning performance?

We’ve all heard the expression “You can’t judge a book by its cover”. If you agree, it’s a good thing you’re not in publishing. Publishing houses have long since proven that a cover may not tell you what’s inside a book, but the cover is the reason that we pick up one or the other off the rack. Until a book is picked up, no sale is made!

A good example of “how you look being more important than what you say” is the first Kennedy-Nixon presidential debate. Radio listeners thought that Nixon had won while TV watchers gave Kennedy the win. Kennedy looked great, fresh and vigorous while Nixon appeared tired and rumpled. The TV audience gave more credibility to what they saw than what they heard.

When I describe someone as an assistant manger at a fast food restaurant you immediately conjure an image of that person, maybe without much conscious thought. When I mention a high level executive you get another, different image in your mind. There is a definite picture of a person with credibility, authority and power – a professional image.

Why not take advantage of the research on human nature and utilize the knowledge to enhance and control how you are accepted?

The research reports that people notice the following about another human being and in this order. Remember this is a prehistoric/subliminal evaluation.

1. Skin color
   
2. Sex
   
3. Age

We can do nothing about the first three, but we can work on the next four factors.

4.    Bearing   This includes height (taller people receive higher starting salaries), head movement (nodding is negative with regard to perception of authority) and body language (smiling is perceived as weakness if over done).

 5.     Appearance   Since about 90% of you is covered by apparel, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact. This is such an important area, and on in which you can effect the greatest impression we’ll discuss it detail below.

6.    Direct Eye Contact   Don’t stare, but look others in the eye 40 – 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide or that you don’t know what you are talking about.

7.    Speech   55% of communication is non-verbal. It’s not what you say, but how you say it.

What you wear makes a difference in how you influence the world.

Why not take advantage of this. Since 90% of us is covered with clothing, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact and one area where we can effect the greatest impression!

Dressing badly can be taken as contempt for other people or the situation you are in. Clothing is a way to show others that you have respect and consideration for the situation. If you have respect for the theatre, you don’t show up in shorts and a T-shirt to a Broadway play. (The same goes for church, a job interview, etc.).

So it’s not a question of being judged. We are judged thousands of times everyday.

It’s a question of whether we want to have an affect on that judging or not.

Are we ready to see what we can do to present ourselves in the best package to project a credible, professional image?

“Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not express’d in fancy; rich not gaudy
For the apparel oft proclaims the man”

Polonius to Laertes
HAMLET, Act I, Scene III

Here are some basic tips, and faux pas to avoid in order to look your best:

1.  Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie.  Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel.  Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.

2.  Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men’s wardrobes.  Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion.  If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes.  Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.

 3.  Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross you legs.   Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front.  Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional.  Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

4.  Wearing both a belt and braces (suspenders) make you look insecure. One or the other please. And if you opt for the braces, please make certain they are the kind that fasten inside your trousers with buttons.

It’s very easy to have a tailor or the alterations person at your dry cleaners put brace buttons on your pants if they don’t already have them. The metal clip-ons are for the guys who wear short sleeve shirts with ties.

5.  Socks should match your trousers.

6.  Belts should match your shoes in color and texture.

7.  Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable.  Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.

8.  Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot.  Clips and tacks are out of date.

9.  Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority.  However the bottom buttons of men’s jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend (see detail below).

Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons.   Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business.  With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.

With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button.  Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button.  On those suits you leave the top button unfastened.  Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!

Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom.  If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.

Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”.  They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).

Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes.  It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.

Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.

Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater?  

King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 – 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot.  His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button.

The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long.  It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.

10. Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing ½” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

11.  No pens or pocket protectors in your shirt pocket. Pens go in your suit coat inside pocket, out of sight. Also applies to telephones, etc. worn on the belt.  Think about getting a nice briefcase!

12.  Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases accessibility.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions.  Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.

Why even be concerned with “fashion”?

“Fashion passes, style remains.”

–  Coco Chanel (1883-1971), founder of Chanel

Men’s clothing, unlike women’s, is more traditional and less fashion oriented.  It takes several seasons for men’s designers to change even slightly the width of a necktie.

The male business suit is virtually unchanged in 70 years!  Part of that is the progression to perfection that has resulted in attire that looks great on most men.  The theory is once you reach perfection, don’t mess with it!

“I’m interested in longevity, timelessness, style
- not fashion.”

–  Ralph Lauren, fashion designer

So why even bother with fashion?   Why not choose acceptable classic clothing items and just stick with those?

“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable
that we have to alter it every six months”

– Oscar Wilde

It’s important to know what the trends are, so you can update your wardrobe periodically with the fashion items IF they fit your own style and body type.  You don’t want to still be wearing a light blue member’s only jacket and red polyester Sansabelt pants, do you?

“The only moral one can draw from history is
that it is much better to invent a new fashion
than a new social theory.
The fist may improve the appearance of men;
the latter will only bring about a revolution”

– Carlo Maria Franzero
the biography, Beau Brummell

Runway Reality  Check

By David  Lipke
DNR Magazine

The fall  runway season is over and designers have disseminated their creative visions into the media ether to be picked up by potential shoppers.  Six months hence,  consumers should have digested their choices and be ready to hit the retail racks to snap up their favorite designer’s new looks.

At least  that’s the idea.  But come fall, just how closely will stores resemble the runways?

In fact, designer shoppers may find the fashions available in department stores to be noticeable different from what was shown in Milan and New Your. That’s because only a certain percentage of any designer’s runway collection is bought by retailer, colors and details are often changed from the original runway look, and many basic items carrying a designer’s label are never showcased on a runway at all.  What’s more, some eye-catching runway pieces are never produced because hey were created strictly for show and never intended for retail customers.

“Almost all runway shows cater to the press and it’s much more about the image of the brand than what’s going to end up at retail,” explained Kevin Harter, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s.  “In reality, in most shows, a great part of what is shown on the runway never makes it to a department store.”  Case in point: Bloomingdale’s will probably buy bout 30 to 50 percent of the fall Sean John collection – “which is a lot,” said Harter.

At Saks Fifth Avenue, Dan McCampbell, vice-president, men’s fashion merchandising, and DMM, men’s sportswear, estimated the upscale chain usually buys just 10 to 30 percent of any designer’s runway looks, depending on the label.  At Barneys New York, Tom Kalenderian, GMM of men’s, similarly pegged his orders at 10 to 15 percent of those much-photographed offerings. “However, this doesn’t devalue the shoes,” he cautioned.  “They are still very effective tools to get across a focused, edited perspective of the designer’s new vision for the season.  We’re looking for iconic pieces that will tell the story of the season and will be good  sellers.” 

More often than not, however, stores write up orders with a majority of pieces that are not taken directly from a runway.  “Everything is custom-made from these  collections,” said Kalenderian.  “The one-and-only permutation of the look on the runway is not the only way to do it. The runway show is really an abridged edition of what the designer is offering.”   That means colors can be changed, different fabrics chosen from sample swatches, pleats eliminated, buttons added or taken away, and lapels notched or peaked. 

While runway shows offer retailers and consumers an explicit message regarding a label’s theme for the season – and add sizzle to the brand – the bread-and-butter of many retailers’ designer businesses is comprised of items like sweaters and suits that never get the klieg-light treatment on  runways.“Dolce  & Gabbana is an excellent example of a house that takes a very directional view with their runway show, but when you go to the showroom they have a wonderfully merchandised lineup of tailored clothing, outerwear and knits,” said Robert Burke, senior fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. 

“Runway might be only 20 percent of their total samples.  You need core elements that you can build a business with and then take runway and use it as frosting and sprinkle it in.”Of course, designers themselves don’t tend to view their runway collections as mere frosting or sprinkles.  Those with their own network of boutiques often showcase the entire breadth of their runway offerings in them – both as a marketing tool and to ensure that shoppers can buy what they’ve seen in magazines.

“It’s great that DieselStyleLab has its own retail showcase so that we can show the entire collection and the concept that we are trying to convey,” said Katie Liu, V-P of sales and marketing at Staff USA, distributor of that label.  While DieselStyleLab retail customers order about 60 percent of what is shown on the runway, the company’s own New York boutique will stock 95 percent of it, said Liu.

“Color is the number-one reason that things are not bought off the runway,” said Liu.  “We might show a more vibrant red color, while retailers will order a more commercially viable gray version.  However, we know that editorial will feature the sample color and we want to have that available in our stores.”

Another  company careful to stock everything seen on its runway is Polo Ralph Lauren. “In Milan, Ralph has always presented collections that are wearable and elegant – looks that are part of a lifestyle,” explained Wayne Meichner, president of Polo Retail Corp. “For Ralph, the runway has never been about theatrics and one-off pieces that will never make their way to retail.  Our Purple Label shows present a luxury-lifestyle sensibility that translate well to our retail environment.”

That  said, Ralph Lauren has been known to tweak certain runway looks before they hit the selling floor of the Rhinelander mansion.  For example, a natty, three-piece, pinstripe suit from the fall ’02 runway show was only sold in a two-piece version at retail, while a crinkled leather trench coat from the spring ’03 show turned up in a smooth version. 

Similarly, at Gucci a spokeswoman noted that while what is shown on the runway is always realized for retail, occasionally slight alterations are taken to render pieces more wearable.  In the spring ’03 collection a pair of high-waisted pants were manufactured with a lower waist for retail.

Kean Etro said he has had a 180-degree change in his approach to the runway:  He now only shoes pieces that will retail.  “I used to organize runways with a high percentage of no-salable items and I truly got sick of such an attitude,” he said.  “Now, everything has to have a reason for existing.”

Not so for Roberto Cavalli, who asserted, “The runway is the foremost moment for showmanship.  It is there where creativity wins and a designer is unbridled to show more exaggerated colors, fits and cuts.  It’s normal that some of these looks will not go into production and I would say that most often it’s connected to costs that would just be decisively too high.”

To lower those prices, certain high-end runway fabrics at Versace are switched to less-expensive materials for retail.  For example, a white python motorcycle jacket in the spring ’03 collection was changed to a calfskin to make it available to a wider audience.  The python version is only available in key Versace flagships around the world, according to a spokesman.

Similarly, Sean John plans changes for some of its more flamboyant fall’03 outerwear pieces before they hit stores.  Fur-lined snorkel coats in the show will likely be produced in nylon or  Ultrasuede, minus the fur lining, said Jeff Tweedy, executive V-P of the company.  Also don’t look for the thermal jumpsuits or shearling chaps – they were never meant for production.

“Those were obviously about giving the editors something to get excited about,” said Tweedy.  But despite the label’s well-deserved reputation for staging over-the-top shows, Tweedy said the company expected to produce about 85 to 90 percent of the looks sent down the runway last month.  Previous Sean John collections, however, have experienced production rates as low as 60 percent of what was shown on the runway.

Several retailers singled out American labels such as Kenneth Cole, Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica and DKNY as having the biggest disconnect at times between their runways and what ends up in stores, noting those labels have showed looks that are not available to retailers.  “It’s very frustrating because you get high-level (retail) executives to go to the show, and later they ask you ‘why don’t we have these looks?’ ” said a fashion director for a major department store.

Kenneth Cole president Paul Blum acknowledged that shows are often used to promote a brand’s image – and not just to showcase retail product.  “Our runway show is an idealized version of our men’s wear collection,” he explained.  “ A lot of the product will available for purchase, but other pieces are stylized items that are not for sale.  But they are always inspired by what our retail collection will look like. I think everybody at the shoes knows how this works.  The shows are part marketing, par image-making and part product presentation.”

A  spokeswoman for Tommy Hilfiger, however, said more than 90 percent of the runway collection is produced each season, either for retail customers of for the brand’s own retail stores. Vyto Palionis, DKNY’s V-P of men’s wear sales and merchandising, said 60 to 80 percent of their brand’s runway collection is available in department store, while 90 percent is available in its own stores. Nautica’s David Chu noted, “Only 2 to 5 percent of what we show to retailers during market does not get produced.  There’s always a couple of pieces that might not get enough orders to produced and are canceled, but everything we show is part of the collection retailers see during market.”

Jeff  Gennette, GMM of men’s and kids’ at Macy’s West, pointed out that shoppers rarely, if ever, sought out pieces just because they were shown on a runway.  What is really important, he noted, was to make sure you have the fashion featured in advertising campaigns.  “Consumers do come looking for specific goods they see in ads, so you should definitely have those in your top doors,” he noted.

Sunny Diego, director of men’s fashion merchandising at Saks Fifth Avenue, has a different view.  “Our designer customers are very loyal and when they see a picture of a show or see it on Fashion File or Videofashion, the call up and want it, “ she said.

Designer John Varvatos said he believed it was important to offer consumers the chance to buy what is essentially advertised on the runway.  “It’s funny that you’re asking me about his today because we had a meeting this morning to review our fall sales and to make sure everything was covered,” he explained.  During that process, certain looks that were not picked up by retailers were bought for Varvatos’s own stores – such as a pair of merlot gabardine pants.

I don’t see the show as a Broadway production.  I lived through that at other companies, where pieces were made just for show,” added Varvatos.  “ But I think you a playing with people if they see a coat or a bag on the runway and it’s only made for the show.  You’re teasing people, and the last thing you want to do in business is disappoint them.”

Just graduated?

Ready to move up the corporate ladder?  

Changing  careers?  

Congratulations!

You are destined to participate in the interview  process!!   Interviewing is a skill that you will use forever in your career, no  matter which side of the desk you are on!!

The interview is, without a doubt,  the time to make the very best possible impression you can make. This is a situation that calls for a serious business outfit.   You, of course, want to be perceived as “serious” about the job, the company and the work you will be doing. You may be applying for a “casual dress” job, but the interview is always dress up!

You will be trying to convince the  person interviewing you that with your serious, conservative clothing – you are  the type of person who will fit in at the company, will not “rock the boat”, or call unnecessary attention to yourself team player).  That’s the reason for conservative clothes and a reason to avoid fashion statements.  Clothing is an  expression of  your respect and consideration for the situation.

Candidates who ignore the importance of “Dressing to Impress” cannot be serious about the job in the minds  of most interviewers. Interviewers expect interviewees to look a certain way so disappointing them at first sight is the “kiss of death”.

You will need to look “right” to a stranger who is making an important evaluation of you within 30 seconds of  meeting you.   And since 90% of you is covered by clothing (hide those tattoos!) the clothing choices you make can have a significant impact, but can be used to  your advantage.   See my article (First Impressionism).

Most recruiters or personnel  executives realize if you’re just starting your career you are on a limited  clothing budget, but they will expect clean, appropriate clothing that fits with  the style of the company where you are interviewing.

In this competitive age, average  doesn’t get you anywhere.  To be successful you have to look the part.  Don’t  kid  yourself that having a good degree, innovative ideas, enthusiasm, motivation  and a great personality  doesn’t mean that an appropriate appearance is of secondary importance.  If you did not have the first qualities you would not  have been invited to interview with the rest of the candidates.

Tip for the Future:  After you get the job, dress  for the position several levels higher (dress like your boss’s boss). If you  want a promotion you must look like you deserve it and can fit into the  post.

Some Specifics on What To Wear:

Wear a suit (it’s more serious  than a sport coat).  Best colors are Navy or Charcoal Gray Single Breasted suit.

Note: Black vs. Navy   For men  black is not usually considered appropriate for business (social, funerals -  yes).Navy is the dominate power color.  Recently this has been challenged by  female executives wearing black since black is such a powerful  color.

Button your suit when you enter  the interview office.  You may unbutton it when you sit down.  Button it back up  when you stand to leave.  Always leave the bottom button  unbuttoned.

White shirt with a straight point  collar.  Only long sleeve please.  Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a  tie.

There is a “rule” that in serious  business dress you wear a minimum of one pattern and two solids. (the elements are your suit, shirt and tie).  Men look great in tuxedos which are all solids!    So the recommendation for interviewing is a solid color suit and shirt and a  patterned tie.   Loud shirts or ties will detract from one’s character and  bearing.

Ties   – Best choices are solid,  stripes, or small patterns and an excellent color is burgundy or another serious  color(avoid pink or yellow).   Even pattern ties should be limited to a maximum  of three colors.  Small patterns in a tie are associated with the upper middle  class and that is usually the group to which your interviewer belongs.  Reppties (stripes) are acceptable to pretty much everyone.  Save the expensive “hip”  ties for your try at glamorous creative jobs.

You can wear the same suit for  subsequent interviews if you change the tie.

The tie should be long enough to  reach your belt buckle, and don’t forget the all important dimple! (the  indentation under the knot.)

Socks  – should match your suit  and not allow any skin to show when you cross your legs.     Trousers should be long enough to  cover your socks, and cuffs are a mark of a sophisticated  businessman.

Leather belts with quiet, small  belt buckles.

SHOES –  One of the most  important fashion factors, they are a strong statement  of personality and  executives(men and women!) notice shoes. Choose black, cordovan or brown  classic lace-ups, shined, and in good repair.

By looking at  shoes you can tell …

Economic status  –  “well heeled”,  expensive shoes

Detail oriented  –  cared for,  polished shoes

Styling – trendy hip creative or  serious businessmen

Color – black more serious, but  brown worn with a gray suit shows sophistication, but be sure your interviewer knows that!

Grooming For The Interview

No cologne (especially on your  right hand, it rubs off when  you shake hands)

Check breath

Clean nails

NEVER Chew gum (also a  great tip for after you get the job)

Hair longer than shoulder length  for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases a feeling of accessibility.  So short hair for power, long hair for an image of  friendliness.

Make sure you have a nice  pen and carry it in the inside jacket pocket (not the shirt pocket).

Name tags go on the right (easier  to read when you shake hands) although most people stick them on the left.

Before the Interview

REHEARSE.  If you are not accustom  to wearing a suit or interviewing.   Drill with someone or by yourself.  Dress up, enter a room, sit down, practice answering questions etc.

SHOW UP  SLIGHTLY EARLY.  Find the  location (parking, etc.) the day before the interview.  Research the company and  know what’s current in that industry. Sound like an insider.  If possible, stop  in a restroom for one last check of your appearance (hair, tie knot,  etc.)

Treat everyone nicely and with  respect, especially the receptionists and secretaries.   Often one bad word from them can ruin your chances.

During the Interview:

Bring something to give to the  interviewer:  a resume, a three ring binder presentation of your accomplishments.

Listen!  Actively.  Ask questions  (have some ready!)    Beware that nodding the head “too much” is perceived as negative with regard to displaying  power and authority.

Hand shake  (aim for  thumb)  firm squeeze not death grip.

It’s “yes” and “no” not  “yeah”, “un-huh” nor “unt-huh”

Don’t answer your cellphone! If  you receive a cellphone call or text message during your job interview, don’tanswer it. Doing so ranks as job candidates’ most common mistake in an  interview, according to a survey of hiring managers.

71% of managers  surveyed named it as the top blunder, according to a report released by  Career Builder.Other common mistakes: dressing inappropriately and appearing  uninterested, each cited by 69% of managers,followed closely by appearing  arrogant at 66%.

Rounding out the list of what not to do is speaking  negatively about a current or previous employer at 63%,chewing gum at an  interview 59%, not providing specific answers at 35% and not asking good  questions at 32%.

When asked the most outrageous blunders they have  encountered when interviewing job candidates, the hiring managers reported hugging the hiring manager at the end of the  interview and eating all the candy from the candy bowl. But at the top of the list of no-no’s: Wearing a hat that said, “Take this job and shove  it.”

Harris Interactive conducted the survey for Career Builder among 2,482 U.S. hiring managers between Nov. 15 and Dec. 2, 2010

Body Language In The Interview

Eye contact!  Don’t stare, but  look the other person (persons) in the eye 40 to 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide.

Smile, but “over  smiling” gives the impression of weakness.

Sit with your back straight, but  lean slightly forward to show how interested you are in the interviewer and the company!

Choose a chair not a sofa.  Sofas  are too low and difficult to sit up straight, you look sloppy, thus putting  you in a weak position.   If possible angle the chair at a 45 angle to the interviewer.  This avoids the confrontational straight across  position.

Mirror:   People are most  comfortable with people who are “like” themselves (in dress, mannerisms,  thoughts, etc.)try to “mirror” the interviewer’s  body position and mannerisms such as speech speed,  (to a certain  degree).

Be Ready To Talk About Your:

• strengths and weaknesses
• accomplishments and  achievements
• failures and how you learned from them and made them successes
• key decisions
• interests, likes and  dislikes
• Men tend to brag too much.  Talk  about your family and hobbies (appear well rounded).  It’s OK to admit mistakes and don’t forget to listen!
• Women don’t brag enough in interviews.  Go ahead tell the interviewer how great you are, but don’t bad  mouth your former boss or company.  You do not want to be categorized  as a whiner!

Some good questions to be ready for (or to ask if you’re the interviewer):

When were you excited about your work?

See if the person’s passions really fit the  job.

What major mistake from you past do you not regret?

Can the person  admit a mistake?  Learn from it?

What’s your favorite movie?

Actually helps  to see if the candidate can think clearly, quickly and  articulate.

What’s a  misconception people have about you?

Does the  candidate understand their image and how to manage it.

In 5 years how will you justify having taken this job?  (a newer version of where do you want to be in 5 years).

Allows the  interviewee to talk about his master career plan.

Added  Dimensions:

SCREENING STAGE:   You may be  asked to meet with one or two people in succession or in a group.

DINNER , Breakfast or Lunch:  This is presently a strong practice since it allows the interviewer to ascertain your manners, how you handle social situations.  Do not drink alcoholic beverages, even if the interviewers are drinking.

GOLF:  Another method of  interview, make certain you have substantial (name brand) golf attire.

SPOUSE:  If they suggest you bring  your wife, it is not a suggestion.  She must show up appropriately  dressed.

FINAL INTERVIEW:  Often the  “final” determination is made by the big, big boss.   Sometimes this meeting is played down by calling the visit a “courtesy call”, but beware this is a very important showing of yourself.   Wear your best and conduct yourself accordingly  (often a very formal, very important few minutes).

After The Interview:

Send a thank you/follow up letter  to the interviewer (restate your qualifications, and if you felt anything didn’t go well this is your opportunity to restate your strengths and the things you didn’t think of/say during the interview.

Keep Your Sense Of Humor!

Taken from the files of real resumes (as reported in Fortune Magazine and on the internet):

“Please don’t misconstrue my 14 jobs as job hopping.  I have never quit a job”

“I have lurnt Word  Perfect 6.0 computor and spreasheet progroms”

“Received a plague for salesperson of the Year”

“Failed bar exam with relatively high grades”

“Am a perfectionist and rarely if if ever forget details”

What The Human Resources Dept Really Means:

“Good Communication Skills”  — Management communicates, you listen, figure out what they want and do it.

“Problem Solving Skills  a must”  — you’re walking into a company in perpetual chaos.

“Join our fast-paced company”  — we don’t have time to train you.

“Some overtime required”  — some each night and some each weekend.

Or you can fill out your application like this, reportedly an actual job application that a 75 year old senior citizen submitted to Wal-Mart in  Arkansas.

They hired him because he was so funny!!!

AFTER YOU GET THE JOB:

And after you get that perfect job, here are some tips from Jeffrey J. Fox, author of “How To Become CEO”!

Don’texpect the Personnel Department to plan your career.  There are no automatic steps on the corporate ladder.  You must be responsible for making your own destiny.

Thinkfor one hour everyday.  Spend the hour planning, dreaming, scheming,calculation reviewing your goals.  Write down ideas.  Do this everyday at the same scheduled time and not while you’re at work (you’ll be interrupted there).

Keepand use a special idea notebook.   Write down all your ideas, plans, goals and dreams in one place.

Arriveforty-five minutes early and leave fifteen minutes late.  If you are going to be first in your corporation start practicing by being first on the job.  People who arrive late to work don’t like their jobs (that’s what management thinks).

Don’t say at the office until ten o’clock every night.  That’s a signal that you can’t keep up or that your personal life is poor.  Leave fifteen minutes late instead.  Use those fifteen mutes to organize your next day and clean your desk.  You‘ll be leaving after 95% of all the employees anyway.

Best ofLuck!!!

– AndyGilchrist

I got a beautiful shirt from Nicholas Joseph Custom Tailors.

Here’s the website: http://customsuitsyou.com/

 

 

 

The fabric is 2 ply Egyptian cotton, Wrinkle-resistant in a Grey Check/Tattersall with gray and Navy Blue Check, price – $185.
 
I’m very pleased with the fabric the feel, fit, and quality, and especially the pattern good for a dress shirt or it will work well as a sport shirt.

Standard on all the Nicholas Joseph shirts are double thick collars and cuffs, a triangular self fabric gusset, plus genuine mother-of-pearl buttons.

The buttons are very nice but (my personal preference) not those “too thick” hard to button kind!!

The shirt has 8 front buttons including the collar, and the bottom one with a horizontal button hole. Slit yoke, of course, but that was one of the many options, and there are endless choices during the online order process. It,s easy and fun to create your own style.

Plus they can make the sleeves different lengths!!! You just have to ask.

I liked the monogram The choice of location, style and thread color.

Since 2005 Nicholas Joseph has specialized in custom made suits and made to measure suits. They also make custom tuxedos, custom dress shirts, custom pants, custom blazers, custom sport coats, and custom overcoats for clients all over the US, Canada, and Europe.

If you’re lucky enough to live in Chicago you can take advantage of their store locations.

GOLD COAST – 21 W. Elm
LINCOLN PARK – 654 W. Diversey
LOOP – 70 W. Madison (Clark side)
SOUTH LOOP – 1351 S. Michigan Ave

But that’s no problem if you don’t. The website is fantastic, and easy to use.

And I like Nick Hansen’s advice and tips on the site.

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Top Banner: 728 x 90 (Beneath Main Navigation)

Top Banner: 220 x 90 (Beneath Main Navigation, to the right of the 728 X 90 Banner)

Breadcrumb Banner: 468×60 (Beneath the “breadcrumb” area (Right here) on Posts and Pages

Footer Banner: 728 x 90 (Just above the footer area)

Footer Banner: 220 x 90 (Just above the footer area, to the the right of the 728 x 90 Banner)

The post Banner Advertising Positions appeared first on Ask Andy About Clothes.

You might remember that I met with their specialist tailor, Ajay Hira in August:

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?118923-Hiras-Tailor-in-the-Los-Angles-Orange-County-area

And have received my light blue mini-hound’s-tooth shirt (Thomas Mason 100% cotton). Great fabric, perfect details and it has eight buttons on the front!!!

A pair of tan slacks (Reid-Taylor fabric). A wool/cashmere blend and from Hira’s travel-collection of fabrics so will resist wrinkles.

A beautiful navy blue sports jacket with blue & yellowish checks (Vitale Barberis fabric).

The fit on all the garments is great.

The only disappointment is that the shirt has the collar stays sewn in, which I’m against if you ever iron your shirt or send it out you’ll get indentations in the collar.

Maybe they’ll reconsider this practice now! I got a split yoke on the shirt which is an option, double buttons – side by side on the cuffs, and corner cut cuffs.

The jacket pattern is beautiful and check the lining!! Working sleeve button holes, peak lapels and hacking pockets with a ticket pocket.

The trousers fit perfectly and I’m anxious to try out the wrinkle resistance!

HIRAS TAILORING is a family owned Bespoke Custom Tailors based in London & Hong Kong. They feature handmade suits, shirts, jackets, coats, dress suits and trousers for men and women. All of their garments are hand cut, and handmade precisely for your size and shape and taste.

And they regularly visit all major cities of the USA and Canada. You can click here for a full list of cities they visit.

Their prices are very reasonable with suits from US $579, handmade shirts from $80, top coats from $579, tuxedos from $599 and sports jackets from $399.

Price depend, of course, on the fabric chosen, and they carry a huge selection of over 3000 cloth to choose from, including European designer fabrics such as Dormeuil, Wain Shiell, Scabal, Zegna and more. All items are individually hand cut and handmade with excellent finishing details.

Check their special package deals.

www.hiras.com

The post Hira’s fashion appeared first on Ask Andy About Clothes.

Knot Standard is a company based in Dubai, with offices in New York City (Union Square) and Virginia (Arlington). Instead of requiring you to visit in person, they take measurements online or at their network of tailoring partners in major cities across the globe. 

Suits are around $499, shirts $109.

This is a company with an excellent selection of suits, shirts, and accessories. I ordered a sport jacket. There were none currently on the website but I contacted them to see what they might offer. They came up with a beautiful light grey Glenn plaid pattern with blue tan and rust. I don’t think these photos are going to do it justice.

The jacket fabric is E.Thomas, a high-end Italian wool and silk blend. Their suits are all Italian fabrics, including Reda and Vitale Barberis Canonico.

Knot Standard Sport Jacket

It’s a slim look with more narrow lapels, suppressed waist and very fun buttons – I think they are Corozo buttons!

I have not taken this to my tailor for his evaluation, but the fit is very good. I might unsuppress the waist a little. Back is good as are the sleeve lengths 

They have an incredible method of taking your online measurements. Very easy to follow, but like all online measurements without a tailor present make sure you take it seriously and put in the time to get the measurements right!

Knot Standard created the Fit Guarantee System so any man can confidently take his own measurements. Fit Guarantee has built-in intelligence of 3rd and 4th generation tailors from the world’s most luxurious outfits. Video, photos and detailed instruction ensure your measurements translate to perfection, every time. Constructed with impeccable fabrics from Italy, Switzerland, England, and Germany, and a cutting-edge measurement system gives you a better feel and fit than ever before.

With their Fit Guarantee measuring system, if your suit doesn’t fit perfectly, you can send it back to for a full refund, no matter what. Once you try it, you’ll be surprised that you didn’t go bespoke earlier.

Save $50 on your first order over$200 with the code “ASKANDY”.

Their master tailors don’t take shortcuts – no pre-made patterns or parts – just fine Italian fabric, your digital model, and the unique design you created. In less than 3 weeks, once your Knot Standard suit is complete and fully inspected for quality, it’s delivered to your doorstep.

Your first suit from Knot Standard is completely risk-free. In the rare case that you’re not completely satisfied by your suit, they’ll fix it, replace it, or give you a full refund – at your request.

They stand behind every garment, confident that once you try their suits and shirts, you’ll never want to wear anything else.

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Great shirt from FitCustomShirts.com

I got an e-mail from Fit Custom Shirts recently with a special offer for a custom shirt. I

I received the shirt and am very pleased with it. The order process was easy with a large selection of design elements from which to choose.

I picked a Blue/Maroon/White 100% imported “Deluxe” Cotton fabric. It’s a very soft fabric.

The pattern is a check with those three colors plus tan. Maybe a little too much pattern for a dress shirt, but I’m sure I can find a necktie that would work with a sport jacket.

I also like, and chose, the pattern to use as a dress shirt.

Seven front buttons on the front placket, removable collar stays, single needle tailoring, and for the cuff I chose an angled two button. Total value was $99.50. But wait until you see the Special for AskAndy Members!!

It doesn’t have a split yoke and that’s not an option now. Maybe something they might want to consider in the future.

As a very special Discount AskAndy Members who are new customers may try a custom shirt from FitCustomShirts.com for ONLY $10. Just enter the code  “ASKANDY” when you checkout.

http://www.fitcustomshirts.com

I also received this information from them:
 Just to share some details with you, although our website is relatively new, we have been perfecting the art and science of internet based custom clothing for almost a decade now. It is not a coincidence that we were able to stitch a shirt that perfectly fits you just by asking your weight, body type, sleeve size and neck size.

Based on our experience of stitching hundreds and thousands of custom shirts over the past few years, we have devised scientific formulas to calculate detailed measurements as the human body is predictably proportional. Our pattern makers, tailors, finishers and QA people go through a rigorous process of blue-penciling and redundant quality inspection to craft each and every shirt.

We are continuing our quest to perfect the process of “mass customization” of clothing. In today’s advertisement driven market, the consumers are conditioned to fit their non-standard bodies into standard off-the-shelf clothing for a “least bad” fit. However, as we (and other companies like us) bring the cost of custom clothing down to the level of ready to wear clothes, we believe that the masses will automatically gravitate towards custom clothing for the joy of a “perfect fit”.

Currently we have offices in the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, Germany and Dubai. Our manufacturing facilities are in Lahore, Pakistan. We have been stitching custom clothes for other retailers in the United States for several years. Now by cutting out all the middle men, we are determined to bring the finesse of custom clothing to the general public at extremely affordable prices.

You will see some exciting new options and features on our website over the coming weeks and months. We are also working on an iPhone app where our goal is to determine the clothing measurements of an individual through the lens of the phone camera.

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Passaggio Cravatte Neckties

I just got a work of art! A Passaggio Cravatte Necktie. I don’t know whether to tie it around my neck or frame it in the living room.

The fabric is outstanding and every step is done by hand.

The necktie I received is a seven fold but not thick like other seven folds I’ve had. Either the superior fabric or the outstanding crafting by the artisans make the necktie unique.

Passaggio Cravatte Necktie

I worked with Gianni Cerutti for my necktie.

Seven Fold Passaggio Cravatte Necktie

Passaggio Cravatte was founded in 2010 by John Cerutti and Marta Step. The history (on the website) is very interesting.

They do not sell anything that is ready made. Everything is custom using only the hands.

Custom Made Neckties

They are the only necktie maker in Italy to offer the ancient seven-pleat necktie that is all internal and hemmed by hand in a single piece silk.

They also offer 4 folds, in addition to the classic tie, in a single piece of silk.

4 Folds Passaggio Cravatte Necktie

The fabrics are 90% real vintage. All are hand-printed with patterns and unique hard to find, and all are now virtually unobtainable. They are true museum pieces in limited edition.

Contact them through http://www.passaggiocravatte.com/ and tell them AskAndy sent you!

The post Passaggio Cravatte Neckties appeared first on Ask Andy About Clothes.

Just got some great neckties – two long and two bow neckties from Windsor Neckwear.

http://www.windsorneckwear.com/

 An easy to shop website for well made neckties at a great price.

 My favorite is the Windsor Paisley Chocolate for only $40. 

And the  A.E.J Windsor Paisley Burgundy only $43.  A.E.J is the Alfred Edmond Jr. Bow Tie Collection an incredible line of beautiful bow ties.

They offer handmade 100% woven silk bow ties and neckties with high thread counts, self tipping and wool blend inner linings to create a neckwear masterpiece.  It will look good, make you look great and last for a long time.

Windsor Neckwear makes it their practice to produce limited quantities per design. The most they will produce of any one tie in a pattern is 50 pieces.

They do this to constantly introduce new products, keep their items exclusive and to always keep the creative juices flowing. This has worked well for Windsor Neckwear and because of this they always tell their customers “if you see it and like it then get it, because it won’t be available long”.

What began in 2008 as a common passion for men’s neckwear has become a rapidly growing business venture between Michael McPherson Jr. and Mace Neal III.  After a brief discussion about the lack luster experience Mike said “we should start our own necktie line” and Mace simply responded “yeah we should”. From that day forward the duo never looked back.

Order today and make sure you tell them you came from AskAndy!

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PinstripesandTweed.com sat down with Andy Gilchrist to talk about his expansive fashion forum, his new website, his Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothes and how he has maintained his following of loyal readers throughout the years.

Read the full interview >>

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Holiday Parties & Events (Plus a little etiquette)

Here are some tips for surviving and still enjoying those holiday parties in style.

Just look at your schedule for the next month. It’s packed with office get-togethers, Holiday parties at friend’s homes or yours, the theatre (how long has it been since you’ve seen The Nutcracker ballet?), Caroling, Christmas dinner, and of course a New Year’s Eve celebration!

You may be thinking “Oh great, it’s time for the office party!” What you need to keep in mind is that you’re not attending a social event, this is a serious business function!!

What you wear needs to be appropriate and present a good image.

First consider it is the Holiday season, a time for festive glitz. That means at office parties you can dress more festive and luxuriously than you do for work.

The Holidays are a great opportunity for men to wear those joyful ties, red sweaters, plaid vests, and your Blackwatch tartan sports jacket.

And you can go festive with a pocket square, a scarf and yes, even socks! Those great socks with Rudolf-the-red-nosed-reindeer are perfect for the season!

Or how about some Holiday cuff links!

Also consider that it’s winter. Even if the temperature is high in your part of the country, white pants and short sleeve t-shirts look out of place! Get out your wool sweaters and corduroy pants.

Think image. Yours! If it’s your or your date’s office party keep in mind this is a business function. Show up looking like you made an effort and thought about what you were going to wear. You don’t want to look like you stopped in on your way to the supermarket!

Some Holiday Attire Suggestions For Men

Dressing For The Theatre or Business.

The office party or a special evening out.

A suit or sports jacket and tie are appropriate for most office parties, even when you dress casually at work. If a tie doesn’t seem right for your company party, dress up your ensemble with a festive sweater.

An office party that is held in the evening at a hotel calls for a suit that might be a notch up from the one you wear to work. If you’re normally garbed in Brooks Brothers, wear your cashmere Oxxford or Zena.

You can still be festive at dressy events with a Holiday tie, red pocket square, and a scarf.

At the theatre, dressing well shows respect for the performers and your fellow audience.

Casual Dress – An Evening With Friends

Dress trousers

Leather shoes with matching belt

Shirt choices: knit long sleeve polo shirt, dress shirt, sports shirt, cashmere or fine wool turtleneck

Sweater in festive colors or designs

Jacket: sports jacket, leather, suede, or shirt jacket.

Semi-Formal Dress (Formal calls for White tie and tails!)

Some office parties and New Year’s Eve.

When the invitation reads “Black Tie”, “Black Tie Preferred”, “Le Smoking”, or “Smoking” for an evening semi-formal event or “White Tie” or “Full Dress” for an evening formal event then your host is providing an elegant affair and expects you to dress according to fit the decor and ambiance of the evening.

When your invitation reads “Black Tie Optional”, or “Black Tie Invited”, the host is leaving the final decision up to you. Most men will be wearing tuxedos, however if you don’t have one a dark suit is perfectly acceptable.

But why not respect the atmosphere the host is trying to create. Wear a dinner jacket and have fun!

Then there is “Creative Black Tie” which is a request to look like the guys at the Academy Awards who trifle with the classic. Best to leave the black shirts, bolo ties and band collars to the “movie stars”.

We all have a little rebel in us, but when the look of formalwear is so classic and everyone looks good in black tie, why spoil it with a raspberry ruffled shirt, an unusual collar, or tie treatment just to satisfy the desire for individuality? In formalwear there isn’t much room for creativity without making a social blunder. Don’t mess with what works!

But, if the urge of individual expression creeps into your thinking, there are a few items with which you can tinker. A colored or patterned bow tie or cummerbund (not both), cuff links and studs that are out of the ordinary, fancy braces, velvet slippers (especially at home), a vest instead of a cummerbund are all options. And these trappings are more acceptable for Holiday parties so go ahead and wear that red plaid vest and scarf!

Holiday Etiquette

Now that we’re all dressed up, and ready to go, here are some important points of interest, and some tips that might just save our career that we need to know.

“Some people change their party for principles,
others change their principles for a party.”

-Winston Churchill

THE INVITATION

Don’t wait until the last minute to RSVP. This gives an impression that you are holding out for something better and makes it more difficult for the hostess to make plans for the party. You must RSVP if you are going to the party or NOT!

If it’s a dinner party be sure to be on time per the invitation.

Attendance at the annual office party is usually mandatory! It’s not written nor spoken of, but failure to attend will be a mark against you!. Plan your arrival to be “on time”, not “fashionably” late.

Despite what the host may say when you ask, children, especially babies and small children should not attend business parties nor most private holiday parties.

GIFTS

If the party is at someone’s home, bring a gift for the host such as chocolate, flowers, or a bottle of wine. Always attach a card to the gift that has your name on it so the host will know who brought the gift. It’s easy in the chaos of hosting to not remember who brought what.

If someone hands you a gift and you don’t have a gift for them, don’t make the situation worse by making excuses or apologies. Just say “thank you” and follow up with a nice note. You can always send a gift later. A wise move, though, is to be prepared and have several generic gifts on hand.

 DRINK

Don’t get drunk and/or wild and crazy – it’s not career enhancing at the office party or appropriate at a get together with your friends.

“The surest way to commit career suicide is …
to be the drunk, horny loudmouth at the office holiday party”

– Cecil Donahue, GQ Magazine.

Hold glasses with stems by the stem not the bowl part.

Don’t ask someone why he or she is not drinking. There are many reasons people say no to cocktails, and often they are personal. There is no reason to put someone on the spot. If someone asks you, simply reply that you are the evening’s designated driver.

CONVERSATION

Introduce your significant other to the people you meet, and include them in the conversation.

Whenever possible it is respectful to stand when being introduced.

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME WITH THE BIG BOSS.

Prepare in advance for the confrontation with Mr. Big. When the boss asks how you are doing, don’t just say “fine,” tell him or her what you’re working on. But keep it brief. Pigeonholing anyone, especially a superior, backfires. Still, you probably don’t have a chance to meet the boss often, so see it as a chance to get on the radar screen.

Get out, and circulate. Don’t be the quiet guy who sits in the corner, sullenly clutching a bottle of beer. That approach will only garner suspicion. Even if you’re shy, you should still force yourself to interact with at least the people you deal with at work. It’s to your advantage to interact on a different level than when you’re in the office.

At the office party, talk about topics other than “shop talk” or office gossip. This is a good opportunity to find out about the lives of people you work with, and it shows them that you have a life outside the office. Confine what you’re working on to one sentence per person. Discuss traveling, books or movies. Try reading the headlines of the newspaper or listening to the news on TV or the radio or topics to talk about if you’re normally a wallflower. Avoid off-colored jokes. Keep foul language out the conversation – for either gender, it is not cool.

Put these topics on your “never discuss” list: religion, politics, or any ideology (even if it’s all about the advantages of being a vegetarian).
Forget the position you fill in the office hierarchy. Don’t ask a subordinate to get you a drink!

Make connections. Just listening intently during a conversation with a key co-worker wins you points, especially with the other distractions of an office party. Find out about someone’s charity pursuits. Write them down after the party. Then, sometime in January, e-mail him or her an article about what you were discussing. This brings you back into that person’s awareness and shows that you put a personal stake in the interaction. Similarly, jot down the names of spouses and children. Try to ingratiate yourself. People are hired and kept at their companies for their personal skills.

At a sit down dinner talk to both partners seated next to you, and focus on positive topics. If you don’t like the food, decorations, or location, no one wants to hear about it!

FOOD

Don’t speak with your mouth full of food.

Avoid using toothpicks in public.

LEAVING

Don’t be the last to leave or leave after just an hour. If it’s an open house leave towards the end of the designated time frame.

On your way out be sure to thank the host for inviting you and for a wonderful time, and then wish them a happy holiday season. Don’t tell the host your leaving to go to another party.

CARDS

Married couples should sign holiday cards with the husband’s name last. The husband’s first name should not be separated from his last name. Many people think the husband’s name should go first as in John and Lisa Smith, but the correct way for married couples to write their name is: Lisa and John Smith.

Have a happy and safe holiday season!

–Andy Gilchrist

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